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Old 05-03-2014, 11:19 PM   #21
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We had an issue when we first seen our unit. There were 'whispy- spidery' appearing marks on the walls of either side. Funny how the dealership couldn't "see" them, but I did persist at the PDI and asked why this hadn't been addressed. After a few weeks, they did hear back from Redwood, and we can schedule taking it in for buffing out.

Honestly, I'd rather buy a buffer and try to buff it out before I send it back to the dealership, so thanks for the suggestion.
What will happen if you take it to the dealer some monkey will take a rotary buffer to it and leave swirl marks and tails all over the paint. If you use a random orbital buffer like Dave or I suggested it is a lot of work(depending how bad it is) but it will not leave swirl marks and make a deep shine. Most body shop or rv paint shops have no clue how to buff swirl free. I'll tell you it's not with a wool pad and a rotary!
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Old 05-03-2014, 11:54 PM   #22
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My buffer has different pads with each pad cutting a little harder on the clear cote. The buffer is also variable speed so I can heat up the clear cote a little without much risk of damage. I use Meguiare's products to get the scratches out with the right pad on the buffer. This past week end it took about 8 hours to go over one side and the front cap. Then the other times I wax it by hand with "Fast Wax" made by "Presto".
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Old 05-04-2014, 12:54 AM   #23
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It takes a long time to do one of these beasts, it's not something you go out and do in a couple hours, more like days! Yes having the different foam pads is important and having a couple different levels of Polish is too.
I like optimum spray polishes.
I use this http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-spray-wax.html Optimum spray wax, spray, wipe done, very little buffing if any. No wax on wax off. It has good UV protectants and lasts too! Great stuff!
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Old 05-04-2014, 12:59 AM   #24
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Thanks Yale and Dave,

We will try doing the buffing ourselves to make the RW look like it should. Wonder if I can send the bill to RW for our time and labor?!
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Old 05-04-2014, 02:07 AM   #25
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Thanks Yale and Dave,

We will try doing the buffing ourselves to make the RW look like it should. Wonder if I can send the bill to RW for our time and labor?!
I'd ask if rather than take it to a dealer if they will just compensate you what they would pay the dealer. Might be worth a try!
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Old 05-04-2014, 04:35 AM   #26
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Something all the new owners have to keep in mind......These trailers are freshly painted and for that reason I recommend "Fast Wax" made by Presto. This is the stuff that body shops use on freshly painted cars and it allows the paint to breath.

The paint will omit fumes and if you use the wrong wax it will seal the seal cote. This will prevent the fumes (from the paint) from passing through the seal cote. This could cause the seal cote to get hazy and your paint wont look as bright.
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Old 05-04-2014, 05:11 AM   #27
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Something all the new owners have to keep in mind......These trailers are freshly painted and for that reason I recommend "Fast Wax" made by Presto. This is the stuff that body shops use on freshly painted cars and it allows the paint to breath.

The paint will omit fumes and if you use the wrong wax it will seal the seal cote. This will prevent the fumes (from the paint) from passing through the seal cote. This could cause the seal cote to get hazy and your paint wont look as bright.
Absolutely correct.

Here is an article about letting fresh paint breath.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...t-30-days.html

Most of the time 30 days is sufficient depending on the paint. Sealing paint to early can actually lead to clear coat failure in extreme circumstances!

If you buy from a dealers lot chances are the paint has cured, if you get an ordered unit I would wait at least 30 days if not a bit longer in cool climates before applying any kind of sealer, wax, sealant or coating.

That said, what do you think the dealers are doing when they sell you their expensive coatings? I bet most have never heard bring it back in 30 days so we can apply it after the paint cures out. Nope they just apply it and send you on your way and stick the money in their pockets. Not the best for your new coach.

New autos are not a concern because the paint is mechanically cured at the factory.

Great point Dave, thanks for pointing this out. I tend to forget a lot of these go from factory direct to customer!
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Old 05-04-2014, 12:43 PM   #28
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We got a protection coating on the exterior and full scotchguard on the carpets and other fabrics on the inside. As external paints can take up to 3 months to fully cure I had them wait the 3 months before applying the exterior coating.
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Old 05-04-2014, 01:49 PM   #29
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We had the exterior done and the dirt just falls off with a spray from the hose. I think it is well worth it.
Ask Dave about waxing. I think it took all day and a bottle of Jack.
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Old 05-04-2014, 05:53 PM   #30
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Polishing the Redwood has become a hobby of mine. It helps take the stresses off my mind. I polish and while my wife reads.

The Redwoods always look great when they shine!
Stress relief PLUS stronger shoulders and arms ... Wax on, wax off! :-)
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Old 05-04-2014, 06:35 PM   #31
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A shiny Redwood is a sign of a happy Redwood!
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Old 05-22-2014, 02:54 PM   #32
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It takes a long time to do one of these beasts, it's not something you go out and do in a couple hours, more like days! Yes having the different foam pads is important and having a couple different levels of Polish is too.
I like optimum spray polishes.
I use this http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-spray-wax.html Optimum spray wax, spray, wipe done, very little buffing if any. No wax on wax off. It has good UV protectants and lasts too! Great stuff!
How much of this does it take for one application to the Redwood? I'm about due for a good wash/wax so I need to start planning accordingly.
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Old 05-22-2014, 06:30 PM   #33
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How much of this does it take for one application to the Redwood? I'm about due for a good wash/wax so I need to start planning accordingly.
A little goes a long way, it took me about 1/2 of the spray bottle to do the entire 38RL. I use it on my cars too. Takes maybe 10% a bottle, if that to do F350 Crewcab. I buy it by the gallon then refill the sprayer. Kind of the best of both worlds, you get the hands on inspection of a hand wax without the buffing. Good protection and doesn't carry the cost of the ceramic coatings. That said I may put a coating on my front cap to fend off more bugs.
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Old 05-22-2014, 10:46 PM   #34
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Thanks, planning on ordering some soon. I'm assuming it's difficult or impossible to find this stuff locally?
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Old 05-23-2014, 03:15 AM   #35
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Thanks, planning on ordering some soon. I'm assuming it's difficult or impossible to find this stuff locally?
autogeek sells a lot of professional detailing supplies. There are other places online to get it but I have never seen it in a local store of any kind. I have no alliance or connection to AG, it's simply the place I get my goodies.

I think you will really like it pretty durable and super easy.
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Old 09-04-2014, 05:08 PM   #36
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My front cap and rear cap is fading badly the unit is a 2013, $3850 to repaint still in warranty hope they pay?

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Old 09-04-2014, 05:36 PM   #37
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Is it a painted unit? I hadn't heard of the fading issue on the painted ones.
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:41 PM   #38
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Is it a painted unit? I hadn't heard of the fading issue on the painted ones.
It has to be, with a painted cap it would all fade, not just the front cap.
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Old 09-04-2014, 07:50 PM   #39
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If it's the standard paint, stay on Crossroads, I know of at least 3 that have been repainted on CR.
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Old 09-04-2014, 07:53 PM   #40
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Also if it's the standard paint scheme, it's not paint it's colored gel coat & most I've talked to that have it have had the same problem.
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