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Old 11-07-2013, 02:51 PM   #1
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Can someone walk me through the process for winterizing my 2013 38RL
I seen where the 4 drains are and I see the hose that says anti freeze

I've always been in warm weather and never had to worry about freezing but in 2 weeks we will be driving back to Kansas. also, do I need to worry while driving through cold areas like Colorado
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Old 11-07-2013, 03:39 PM   #2
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Get three or four gallons of the pink RV antifreeze. Open the valves under the drivers side of your RV and drain the tanks. Open up all the inside water faucets (both hot and cold). Turn your heater bypass valve on and then turn your water pump on and pull out the hose for the antifreeze and put it in the gallon jugs. Run the water pump until you see pink stuff running coming out of them. Then pour a gallon of the pink stuff into the water fill hole and run your ice maker until you get pink ice. Get some "No Damp" and put two of them in your RV. One on the island and one in the bedroom. Also you might consider adding an extension cord to your unit to keep the batteries charged.

Personally, I wouldn't do any of the above until I get to my final destination. Your RV will stay warm enough enroute.




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Old 11-07-2013, 03:43 PM   #3
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First I drain the fresh tank and hot water heater.

I blow down the lines with air with the plug out of the heater just to make sure that line is clear of water before I close the bypass. (may not be necessary)

Bypass the water heater with the valve on the convenience center, and a second valve inside the hatch down by the water pump.

Pull the filter for the water filter and replace the reservoir (if you have one).

pull out the white hose from the convenience center, remove the cap, and stuff it in a bottle of antifreeze. (I actually use a 5 gallon boiler fill plastic tank with a valve so I don't have to chase around changing bottles)

Make sure all faucets, drains are CLOSED!

Turn on the water pump with the outside switch to pressurize (use the drains at the frame to purge air). This could suck up a whole bottle.

Being careful not to run out of antifreeze, run each faucet hot, and cold, until pink comes out steady. (I always start with the faucet furthest away).

Put the cap back on the white hose, turn off the pump, and all done.....Unless.....

Dishwasher - if you have a dishwasher, run it through a quick cycle no dry while pumping antifreeze. It only takes about 1/2 bottle.

Ice Maker - if you have an ice maker, turn off the valve under the sink before you start, then unscrew the hose from the back of the fridge (behind the vent). While pumping antifreeze, open the valve under the sink until someone verifies pink coming out, then close the valve and stow the hose behind the fridge. (I actually reconnect it in case I get too excited in the spring and forget to hook it back up and flood my kitchen)

Wash Machine - We have a Splendide and it has simple instructions to winterize it, running hot, then cold while pumping antifreeze for about 20 seconds until you see pink, then running it to spin cycle to drain. They provide a way to bypass the timers.

Pour yourself a little antifreeze - like the charcoal barrel type, as you now deserve it and it's cold outside.
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Old 11-07-2013, 04:32 PM   #4
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I like that last step
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Old 11-07-2013, 04:39 PM   #5
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You also need to flush the spray off hose outlet in the convenience center. I also like to pour a little in each sink and tub drain. I have had the "P" trapfreeze and crack in the past.Edited by: KenM
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Old 11-07-2013, 04:51 PM   #6
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Ken, doesn't the P-traps get antifreezed as you do the faucets?
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Old 11-07-2013, 05:31 PM   #7
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Sometimes not enough. Depends on how long you let it flow. I have seen some people as soon as the the water shows pink the shut off the flow. The water mixture with the anit-freezewill not be high enough and can freeze. For the small cost of a little more pink cool-aid it is worth the piece of mind.Edited by: KenM
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Old 11-07-2013, 07:12 PM   #8
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Ah OK. I see what you are saying. When I used jugs, I always saved the last part that didn't get picked up with the suction hose for the p-traps after I was all done. But with this large jug I just have to remember to let them run longer.
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:04 PM   #9
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If you don't have washer/dryer hook short hose to washer supply valves and open valves just like the other faucets. You will need to catch this antifreeze in a jug.
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Old 11-08-2013, 05:53 AM   #10
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You have hit it right on the head. Most people forget the risers in the closet that feed the washer and dryer. Also the hose attachment in the utility area. Hook up the quick disconnect hose and spray till pink.
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Old 11-08-2013, 10:13 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel chaser

If you don't have washer/dryer hook short hose to washer supply valves and open valves just like the other faucets. You will need to catch this antifreeze in a jug.
OR, for your convenience, there is a drain right there next to the faucet to run the hose in

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Old 11-08-2014, 06:44 PM   #12
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where is the winterize switch in a 38fl
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Old 11-08-2014, 07:02 PM   #13
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Ours is in the convenience center. Big red switch, clearly marked.
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Old 11-08-2014, 07:51 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by booboo4 View Post
where is the winterize switch in a 38fl
Could you be asking about the winterizing selector valve? I ask because my Montana had one, and the early Redwoods had one (as shown in this video http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=...92909D6693B5E4
)

They must have dropped this valve sometime in 2012 and either eliminated it or it actually became the inside tank isolation valve down by the pump behind the basement wall.

At either rate, all the winterizing valve did before was select between tank or antifreeze hose. I use the one down by the pump, as it keeps antifreeze from getting back into the tank when winterizing through the antifreeze hose in case the pump check valve leaks. You don't really need to use it if you don't want to, it is just additional precaution.

The valve Todd is talking about is the hot water tank bypass - a critical valve in winterizing.
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Old 11-09-2014, 02:34 PM   #15
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Will the blue RV & Marine antifreeze work?
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Old 11-09-2014, 04:52 PM   #16
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I've never seen the blue stuff.....just make sure it's not poison.
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Old 11-09-2014, 06:18 PM   #17
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Make sure it is RV and not windshield washer fluid -

Who in the world would make blue RV antifreeze - the world is confusing enough!
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Old 11-09-2014, 06:24 PM   #18
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Inside your city water inlet is a one way valve. Remove the screen to access this. With no or low pressure in the system, depress the one way valve. Turn on the water pump until the pink antifreeze flows out the inlet. Then release the valve and replace the screen.

Failure to do the above step may result in you spraying water out your city water inlet when you use your pump in the spring. BTDT.

Note, this step may not be necessary if the first thing you did was use air in the City water inlet, to blow out the lines. You've removed the water at the one way valve.
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Old 11-19-2014, 12:35 PM   #19
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I also blow out the black tank flush line. I forgot the first year I owned my Montana and was not happy the following spring when I went to clean my black tank using the flush and water was all over the basement.
-Jack
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