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Old 06-22-2014, 03:12 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by JerryL View Post
Why wouldn't Redwood just wire the lock to the unit's 12v system? Sounds simple enough to me.
Our 3012 36RL has a Southco lock. This lock is connected to the coach's 12 volt system via a couple of contacts on the edge of the door. The lock can be operated either by key or remote keyfob. Haven't had any problem with the lock system in nearly 3 years of ownership. The keyfobs still have the original batteries in them. I am beginning to believe this must be the most reliable lock that has been used on the Redwoods. It sure seems that many of the other locks have had way too many reliability issues which is very unfortunate for the folks.
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Old 06-22-2014, 03:39 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoosierguy View Post
Our 3012 36RL has a Southco lock. This lock is connected to the coach's 12 volt system via a couple of contacts on the edge of the door. The lock can be operated either by key or remote keyfob. Haven't had any problem with the lock system in nearly 3 years of ownership. The keyfobs still have the original batteries in them. I am beginning to believe this must be the most reliable lock that has been used on the Redwoods. It sure seems that many of the other locks have had way too many reliability issues which is very unfortunate for the folks.
Hmmm - reliable - probably why they quit using it Does anyone have a picture of the Southco?
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Old 10-21-2018, 01:47 AM   #33
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Well, my Southco entry door lock with remote key-fobs finally failed this week after 7 years!!

This lock gets 12 VDC supply voltage via 2 contacts on the lower right side of the door. The lock has operated just fine since I purchased the 2012 Redwood in September 2011. I have never even changed the batteries in the key-fobs. When the lock quit responding, I was getting a slight clicking sound from the door but the lock was not locking/unlocking. Over the past couple of days, even the clicking stopped when using the key-fob.

This afternoon I started investigating the problem. I checked voltage at the door contacts and it is 12.27 VDC. I opened up the lock on the inside of the door where there is an solenoid type actuator just below the door lock/latch. I removed the actuator and checked it on a small 12 volt battery and it operates just fine. So, that narrows the problem down to the RF receiver control.........now my question.

Does anyone have any idea as to where the receiver control is located if it is not in the door itself?

The Lippert info on the Southco lock says the "receiver board" is located inside the door just below the window. Problem..........my door has no window, only a peep hole. I don't see any way to take the door apart and I would hate to think that I have to buy a new door if I wanted to replace a receiver board.

I know most of you have other brands of locks from the early discussion on this thread, but, I am looking for some expert ideas possibly from someone who has also had a the Southco lock and had reason to go looking for the receiver control.
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Old 10-21-2018, 02:11 AM   #34
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Remove the bottom trim on the door, I think you'll find it in there.
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Old 10-21-2018, 03:00 AM   #35
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Remove the bottom trim on the door, I think you'll find it in there.

Danny, thanks. I guess I need to look closer tomorrow. When looking at the door this afternoon late, it was not obvious where it might be.

Guy
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Old 10-21-2018, 09:26 PM   #36
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Just to be sure that my key-fob was still operating and the batteries were not to low, I opened it up and checked the batteries. Each key-fob has two CR2016, 3 volt batteries in series. The voltage checked to be 6.3 volts; wow, after 7 years.

So, the problem must be with the receiver control or wiring in the bottom of the door. Now to see how to get the door's bottom seal removed without ruining the door.
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Old 10-22-2018, 12:12 AM   #37
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Well.......................
I decide to do one additional test/check before trying to get at the receiver/control in the bottom of the door. I had checked for voltage at the contacts mounted on the door frame and confirmed that 12.27 volts was available there. I had checked the actuator itself and confirmed that it was still functional. But, I had not tried to check through the mating spring loaded contacts, wiring and receiver/control in the door itself. I reassemble the actuator and lock mechanism into the door. Then I used a small 12 volt battery from a fish/depth finder along with clip leads to provide power through the spring loaded contacts with the door opened. Wahla............everything worked as it should. So, that meant that contacts at the lower right side of the door were not making a good connection. I did some cleaning and bent out the contacts on the door frame and the Southco lock system now operates again. Just to look at those contacts, it seemed like they would have been connecting okay, but, that wasn't the case.

I wasn't looking forward to tearing that door apart. I am sure happy I didn't have to.
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Old 10-22-2018, 03:43 PM   #38
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Old 10-22-2018, 07:57 PM   #39
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I wish they would've continued using the Southco locks. I replaced the keypad on mine 3 times due to getting wet & have a new one still in the package that I don't intend to use. The key fobs have also quit working & I don't intend to continue the aggravation with them either. So far the keys still work.
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