|
01-07-2015, 08:04 AM
|
#1
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 21
|
Plugging into 110
We keep our RW at a covered storage lot that has a 110 power outlet at each space. I have never plugged into this particular outlet. I was thinking of using my Surge Guard protector to test polarity, etc on the outlet. If everything was ok I was gonna plug in to charge the batteries and run the fridge. I don't really want to leave the surge protector plugged up for fear of it disappearing. Would a household surge protector do any good or should it be fine just plugged up to the outlet with no protector? Any suggestions or info on what others do for 110 outlets would be appreciated. Thanks!
|
|
|
01-07-2015, 11:25 AM
|
#2
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 2,055
|
Since my surge guard is the 50 amp version, it just never crossed my mind to test the power at our storage location
Agree with you, wouldn't want our surge guard to get legs either and a household one wouldn't hurt at all... (Although I've been told that those can handle one surge only and then they are no good)
I plugged ours into the 110 for months now and no issues...
just to keep batteries charged and the furnace set to 40 degrees or less... but everything else is off including the residential fridge just because there's really no need for us to have anything else on.
__________________
Ours: '11 Monaco Diplomat 43DFT followed closely by '14 Jeep 4 dr Wrangler.
Hers: '13 Explorer Sport - AWD 365hp twin turbo scooter!
Previous: '13 Ford F350 CC Platinum and '13 38GK
|
|
|
01-07-2015, 05:21 PM
|
#3
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 918
|
Neal,
In all honesty the best long term solution would be to install hard mounted Surge Protection like Johnboytoo and myself have. I don't think twice about plugging into strange plugs now and there's no fear of it getting stolen.
Now to actually answer your question. One of the biggest benefits to having surge protection is actually the polarity protection. Typically once plugged into a correctly wired outlet you don't have to worry too much about something happening with the power. However regions vary with this depending on local power reliability, thunderstorms, etc so your mileage may vary. In short what I'm saying is plug it in once to check everything is OK, if things are ok remove it and plug the unit directly into the outlet without the surge device installed.
__________________
2014 Redwood 38BR, Fulltiming
2013 Ford F-350 CCSB 6.7L 4x4 SRW, B&W Companion Hitch, Air Bags
|
|
|
01-07-2015, 05:53 PM
|
#4
|
Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,340
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by lwg
Neal,
In all honesty the best long term solution would be to install hard mounted Surge Protection like Johnboytoo and myself have. I don't think twice about plugging into strange plugs now and there's no fear of it getting stolen.
Now to actually answer your question. One of the biggest benefits to having surge protection is actually the polarity protection. Typically once plugged into a correctly wired outlet you don't have to worry too much about something happening with the power. However regions vary with this depending on local power reliability, thunderstorms, etc so your mileage may vary. In short what I'm saying is plug it in once to check everything is OK, if things are ok remove it and plug the unit directly into the outlet without the surge device installed.
|
X2..........best practice.
__________________
Guy & Phyllis
2012 RW36RL,DualA/C,KodiakDiskBrakes,TrailAir Tri-Glide,GY_G614's,Roadmaster Comfort Ride Slipper Spring Suspension
2011Dodge3500Laramie,CrewCab,4x4,SRW,Michelins, LongBed,6.7LCTD,3.73,PullRiteSuper5th20.5KHitch, BlueOxBedsaver
|
|
|
01-07-2015, 06:03 PM
|
#5
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,444
|
You can go to Home Depot or Lowes and purchase a yellow "plug in" tester to any 110 outlet and it will tell you if it is wired correctly however it will not tell you if the voltage is within proper range. I also have an inexpensive plug in volt meter that I leave plugged In to an outlet in the coach so I can monitor any changes in voltage.
__________________
Rick and Mindy
Retired
2013 Redwood 31SL, 2011 Ford F350 SRW, 6.7, Crew Cab with Firestone Bags, Titan Disc Brakes
|
|
|
01-07-2015, 06:08 PM
|
#6
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 7,101
|
I have the progressive dynamics built in 50A. I may have false assumptions, but I assume it also protects me to some level when plugged into a standard 20A with adapter.
__________________
Brad & Dory - Lone Tree, CO
CURRENT - 2013 Itasca Meridian 42E/2013 Wrangler 4dr Sahara
SOLD - 2014 Redwood 36RL/2014 F350 DRW
|
|
|
01-07-2015, 09:04 PM
|
#7
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 721
|
AA I have the same hard wired surge protector as you and when you are plugged into a 15A outlet, the readout progresses through L1, L2, and E# just like normal. But one of the L1 or L2 readouts is 0V, the other is 115V. Worked just like a champ.
__________________
Jim & Mary 2013 36 RL with Titan Disc Brakes Residential Fridge Goodyear 17.5 H rated tires MORryde IS, MORryde pin box 2015 Ford F350 King Ranch DRW
|
|
|
01-07-2015, 09:24 PM
|
#8
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 7,101
|
That's good to know Jim. So I just don't have to worry about it. I wish I would have got the remote readout - I never really see mine unless there is a problem and I have to go crawl in and look. Otherwise I never really know what it is doing.
__________________
Brad & Dory - Lone Tree, CO
CURRENT - 2013 Itasca Meridian 42E/2013 Wrangler 4dr Sahara
SOLD - 2014 Redwood 36RL/2014 F350 DRW
|
|
|
01-08-2015, 01:03 AM
|
#9
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,807
|
Jim, if plugged into a 15, 20, or 30 and only get reading on one leg, you have a problem or something isn't wired correctly. That would also say that only half you RW was getting power. When using any of the many assorted adapters with a 50 amp rig, it should feed both L1 and L2 and the voltage should be the same since they are tied together at the adapter.
__________________
Michelle & Ann
2018 Chevy 3500HD Crew Cab High Country DRW, D/A, 2016 RW39MB, Dual ACs, Auto Level, Auto Sat Dish, Stack W/D, King Sleep #, 17.5" Sailuns w/Disc, MORryde IS & Pin, Comfort Ride Hitch, 5.5 Onan, Res Fridge & Induction Cook Top
|
|
|
01-08-2015, 02:30 PM
|
#10
|
Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,340
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by atom ant
I have the progressive dynamics built in 50A. I may have false assumptions, but I assume it also protects me to some level when plugged into a standard 20A with adapter.
|
Brad, your assumption is correct.
__________________
Guy & Phyllis
2012 RW36RL,DualA/C,KodiakDiskBrakes,TrailAir Tri-Glide,GY_G614's,Roadmaster Comfort Ride Slipper Spring Suspension
2011Dodge3500Laramie,CrewCab,4x4,SRW,Michelins, LongBed,6.7LCTD,3.73,PullRiteSuper5th20.5KHitch, BlueOxBedsaver
|
|
|
01-08-2015, 05:00 PM
|
#11
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 370
|
We have surge guards that plug into the pedestal and we've never been concerned about them "walking away". A thought that you may want to consider if you are careful with your power usage, purchase a cheap 15 amp surge bar and use it. The amperage you would be pulling will be less than 15 amps with just the fridge and convertor running (unless your batts are fully discharged). When you get back, plug in your regular surge guard before you do something in the RV.
When in Mexico we ran on 4 amps (WH and fridge on propane) and we had a 20 amp external power conditioner that did fine. The fridge should pull less than 10 amps. All this assumes a propane fridge, if you have a residential fridge the 15 amp bar may not work
__________________
2013 Redwood 36RL, 2011 F-450, Sat Internet, Sat TV
|
|
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Threads |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|