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Old 03-07-2018, 09:33 PM   #1
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Help Find Schwintek Motor Screws

My bedroom Slide Room on my '12RL has always run slow, but lately, its been running dead slow. Sometimes, it even stopped and I had to restart extending it. Giving it a good lubrication to the gear drives and tracks solved some of the issue, but I just bought a replacement motor for my "spares" box just in case.

I spent about an hour on Lippert site prepping to do a dry run on replacing a motor. First, I pulled in the Slide Room about 10 inches and removed the inside weather strips. Both motors were in plain sight - so I went outside on a ladder and pulled back the weather strip looking for the attachment screw, but I could hardly get my fingers in between the weather strip and slide room sidewall - and no sign of the mounting screw on either side.

Then it dawned on me... do I have to remove all the screws and both outside trim pieces? That will basically ruin the body paint as I will have to cut through the painted caulking both front and rear and remove about 16 painted-in screws.

Any other way to do this?
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Old 03-08-2018, 07:31 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by 5th_Time View Post
My bedroom Slide Room on my '12RL has always run slow, but lately, its been running dead slow. Sometimes, it even stopped and I had to restart extending it. Giving it a good lubrication to the gear drives and tracks solved some of the issue, but I just bought a replacement motor for my "spares" box just in case.

I spent about an hour on Lippert site prepping to do a dry run on replacing a motor. First, I pulled in the Slide Room about 10 inches and removed the inside weather strips. Both motors were in plain sight - so I went outside on a ladder and pulled back the weather strip looking for the attachment screw, but I could hardly get my fingers in between the weather strip and slide room sidewall - and no sign of the mounting screw on either side.

Then it dawned on me... do I have to remove all the screws and both outside trim pieces? That will basically ruin the body paint as I will have to cut through the painted caulking both front and rear and remove about 16 painted-in screws.

Any other way to do this?
I have a 2012 re the bedroom slide motor on the closet side went out. I had to remove all the screws on the outside wiper seal. Then you can pull the assembly from the outside out about 10 inches to remove and reinstall a new motor.
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Old 03-08-2018, 08:45 PM   #3
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Mike
On the outside pull the wiper to the side and there is 1 screw on the motor that holds it in place easy to see. Then pry motor up to uncouple
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Old 03-12-2018, 02:46 AM   #4
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FYI - I was informed several years ago to replace the motors in pairs so you do not run into syncing issues between an older version motor and a new one.
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Old 03-12-2018, 11:48 AM   #5
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Yep, there is a single screw on the outside to remove the motor.
It takes a little effort to hold the wiper seal back and get the screw out as it is behind it but it is a small / short screw and can be removed without removing the wiper seal.
Then the motor can be removed from inside fairly easily once the inside rubber seal is removed.
I have changed out two of my 4 motors and keep a spare motor with me.
Both motor failures were from the wire leads breaking at the entry into the motor, the replacement motors have a better wire lead connection at the motor than the old ones did.
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Old 03-12-2018, 04:20 PM   #6
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My slide room is heavy, with washer & dryer in the rear and queen bed in the front. I was happy that both motors sounded active, but my issue was that no matter how many times or techniques I used, I could not get the motors to re-sync. When I extended it, the room would move out a few inches and time-out because the rear motor would run ahead of the front motor and jam the room. Moving in an inch and trying again would allow it to extend. Retracting it, the room would come in uneven and you could hear the front motor run for 3 or 4 seconds longer while it evened out the slide. No codes on the controller and I cleaned all the contacts on it.

I even called Lippert and opened up a case, but nothing they suggested would sync the motors. I finally took out the mattress and metal box spring, inspected everything for drag, lubed the wide interior and exterior rollers, plus all four tracks, motor couplings and gear drives with the CFC lube Lippert recommends. Then sync'd without the weight of the mattress in place and was surprised it was successful. I have always kept the tracks lubed but had never done the motor couplings or gear drives.

After reassembly, I've extended and retracted the room a half dozen times with success. Not sure what fixed it, but it was time to add a motor to my spare parts box "just in case". Yes, I understand that it's best to replace both motors at same time so I'll probably buy another. Not looking forward to that as even with a ladder (which I don't normally carry), I could barely move the wiper seal enough to get a finger in the opening - and still couldn't feel the attachment screw. Probably will convince myself to remove the trim and wiper if properly motivated (scared). Ha Ha
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Mike & Pam '12 36RL, Kodiak Discs, 17.5" G114s H-Rated, SRE4000 w/HD Shackles, Joy Rider Shocks, Flex Air, 5.5 Onan, W&D, DW, 4 Scare Lights, (2) 6V Trojan T-145s; Progressive EMS-HW50C, Winegard DTV Sat, Sony/Denon 4K Home Theater, WiFiRanger EliteAC Pack, weBoost 4G-X Cell Booster.

'18 GMC Denali 3500HD CC, 4x4, DRW, DuraMax, Allison, Curt Q25 w/OEM Prep, Intellihaul Cameras, Transfer Flow 70gal Aux Tank/Toolbox.
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