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Old 02-18-2014, 06:14 PM   #1
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Question Furnace outlet not working

Camping on Table Rock Lake in Missouri in our 36RL. It's been pretty cold here. For some reason the furnace outlet in the bedroom has stopped blowing hot air. (My wife says she wishes that would happen to me). The other outlets are working fine. I pulled the grate off and hit a dead end. Any suggestions as to how I should approach repairing this problem?
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Old 02-18-2014, 07:19 PM   #2
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Camping on Table Rock Lake in Missouri in our 36RL. It's been pretty cold here. For some reason the furnace outlet in the bedroom has stopped blowing hot air. (My wife says she wishes that would happen to me). The other outlets are working fine. I pulled the grate off and hit a dead end. Any suggestions as to how I should approach repairing this problem?
Grandpa, most likely the vent hose came off your plenum. To access it, you'll need to take down the garage drivers side wall behind your valves. You'll need a S2 square bit socket for your drill and some real metal backed duct tape. Once you reattach the duct hose to the plenum, tear 2 inch pieces of the duct tape and work your way around the vent hose, sealing all air penetrations. I also found holes in some of the hoses and ducted taped those. Good luck. Vic
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Old 02-18-2014, 11:46 PM   #3
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I actually had the same problem after taking delivery of my 31sl. Took it back to the dealer, they said it was fixed, happened again during the next trip, decided to fix it myself. Took the basement wall down as suggested, it had come loose but mine had a flat metal piece attached to duct so I managed to screw it up into the vent box then used aluminum tape and secured it accordingly. Wow, now fixed correctly.
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Old 02-19-2014, 12:00 AM   #4
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Mine did the same thing on our current trip. Did as others have stated. The duct had fallen off of the plenum. I duc taped it back but will place a piece of sheet metal under it and screw it to the bulk head frame work when we return home.
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Old 02-25-2014, 03:45 PM   #5
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I have only had my 36rl a week, was checking things over found the same , I cut two 1x 1/2 x15 strips of wood and srewed to frame but were is the insulation in the bath deck it states in book and website has any one looked check it out, srewes would not hold in thin floor duct
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Old 02-27-2014, 01:54 AM   #6
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That happened to me also in my 36RL. The insulated duct had fallen loose. Had to remove the wall in the storage compartment and reinstall the duct.
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Old 02-27-2014, 05:05 AM   #7
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Think that has happened to at least 50%, why they thought duct tape would stick to a heated duct?
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Old 02-27-2014, 02:17 PM   #8
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I have used duct tape numerous times on furnace ducts and dryer ducts with no problem. Good tape put on properly should stay on for many years
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:00 PM   #9
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Wasn't that what duct tape was invented for before it became a universal fix ?

Na - I agree, I don't think duct tape was ever designed to hold the duct together, just to seal it. I think you are always supposed to screws, then duct tape.
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Old 02-28-2014, 02:14 AM   #10
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Had the furnace and ductwork replaced in an older house and a complete heat A/C system installed in a new one. Very few screws used on the ducts. Mostly to attach ducts to registers. " Another variation is heat-resistant duct tape useful for sealing heating/ventilation/air-conditioning (HVAC) ducts, produced because standard duct tape fails quickly when used on heating ducts. There is
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Old 02-28-2014, 02:35 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcflame View Post
Had the furnace and ductwork replaced in an older house and a complete heat A/C system installed in a new one. Very few screws used on the ducts. Mostly to attach ducts to registers. " Another variation is heat-resistant duct tape useful for sealing heating/ventilation/air-conditioning (HVAC) ducts, produced because standard duct tape fails quickly when used on heating ducts. There is
You might want to call them back to do it right -

International Mechanical Code 2012 Section
603.4 Metallic ducts
603.4.1 Minimum Fasteners.Round metallic ducts shall be mechanically fastened by means of at least three sheet metal screws or rivets spaced equally around the joint.

Unless you have flexible ducts which allow tapes providing they meet UL 181 for flame spread and heat resistance.

Just saying
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Old 02-28-2014, 05:17 AM   #12
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Have used plenty of duct tape as as well, but not hold 2-4" ducts to the heated fiber/plastic/cardboard( whatever that material is) ducting on the ceiling.
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Old 02-28-2014, 04:20 PM   #13
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It all depends on what codes the states have adopted. There are numerous codes out there and many that haven't been adopted my some states including the Electrical code, National Fire Prevention Code, etc. Apparently the code you mentioned has not been adopted in SD since I have never seen a duct system in a residence that has 3 metal fasteners on each connection.
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Old 02-28-2014, 06:13 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by rcflame View Post
It all depends on what codes the states have adopted. There are numerous codes out there and many that haven't been adopted my some states including the Electrical code, National Fire Prevention Code, etc. Apparently the code you mentioned has not been adopted in SD since I have never seen a duct system in a residence that has 3 metal fasteners on each connection.
Roger,
I know you've been retired for a while, but South Dakota adopted the 2009 IMC which was the first edition for section 603.4 requiring fasteners.

International Mechanical Code 2009
603.4 Metallic ducts
603.4.1 Minimum Fasteners. Round metallic ducts shall be mechanically fastened by means of at least three sheet metal screws or rivets spaced equally around the joint.

The International Residential Code, also adopted in most counties in South Dakota as shown in the link below require mechanical fastening of sheet metal fittings, not tape, as stated in the 2009 Edition Section M1601.4.1.

http://www.iccsafe.org/gr/Pages/SD.aspx

I won't push any further or get any further off topic - just a fellow firefighter saying you might want to look into it further. I would not have accepted that work, nor did I in our recent HVAC upgrade. Nothing worse than having the ducts disconnect in a finished wall or ceiling after the tape degrades.

Back to Redwoods -
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Old 02-28-2014, 08:39 PM   #15
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Adam, You're right. We're getting off topic. We haven't had a house since we retired in 2002, any duct problems belong to someone else. We built the house in 79 and never had any problem but it can always happen.
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Old 03-02-2014, 12:07 AM   #16
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It all depends on what codes the states have adopted. There are numerous codes out there and many that haven't been adopted my some states including the Electrical code, National Fire Prevention Code, etc. Apparently the code you mentioned has not been adopted in SD since I have never seen a duct system in a residence that has 3 metal fasteners on each connection.
I agree there are numerous codes in the US, here in Canada all RV have to comply with the Canadian code in order for them to be sold in Canada. There are RV dealerships here that will refuse to work on units that were purchased in the US if they are not built and certified to these standards (another way to refuse service)
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Old 03-02-2014, 12:16 AM   #17
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Duct tape was the problem! It should be renamed to "this might work" tape!
Replaced the duct with a sticky metal tape from Lowes. Hot air is now blowing in the bedroom and it's not just me.
Thanks for the tips and tricks! Couldn't have done it with out you!!
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