Automatic Leveling System Probem Fixed

[donwheeler]

I thought I would pass along a cure to a specific problem I had with my Lippert auto-leveling system on my 2011 RW36RE.

SYMPTOM:
Whether in Auto mode or Manual mode, any operation from the touchpad would only last for 3 or 4 seconds, then stop. For instance; if I wanted to retract the rear jacks in manual mode, it would take several 3-to-4 second operations to ultimately retract the jacks.

CURE:
Replacing the faulty 50 Amp auto-reset circuit breaker (Buss CBP 50BA). It's a small device with two terminal posts on it located near various other Lippert hydraulic and electrical components inside the battery compartment. The device costs less than five dollars.

Perhaps this information may help someone in the future.

[Adamsvr]

Originally Posted by donwheeler

I thought I would pass along a cure to a specific problem I had with my Lippert auto-leveling system on my 2011 RW36RE.

SYMPTOM:
Whether in Auto mode or Manual mode, any operation from the touchpad would only last for 3 or 4 seconds, then stop. For instance; if I wanted to retract the rear jacks in manual mode, it would take several 3-to-4 second operations to ultimately retract the jacks.

CURE:
Replacing the faulty 50 Amp auto-reset circuit breaker (Buss CBP 50BA). It's a small device with two terminal posts on it located near various other Lippert hydraulic and electrical components inside the battery compartment. The device costs less than five dollars.

Perhaps this information may help someone in the future.

Don't know what year your Redwood was built, but if you have a 2013 and one half, or earlier, there is a Technical Service Bulletin out to fix the issue with the Jacks and the hydrolic slides.

[Dan]

Originally Posted by Adamsvr

Don't know what year your Redwood was built, but if you have a 2013 and one half, or earlier, there is a Technical Service Bulletin out to fix the issue with the Jacks and the hydrolic slides.

Adamsvr
I haven't heard about any service bulletin can you provide please

[sinder]

The TSB was issued to service centers last year. If you are experiencing hydraulic jack retract issues and/or hydraulic slide retract issue such as the fuse blowing out, the TSB involves the Trombetta soiliniod, wiring harness and electrical connection block. If you have issues as describe you should contact a service center, they should know about the TSB.

[Adamsvr]

Here you go:

[mesg]

any chance of getting these images uploaded as individual pics? i cant seem to save them outside of the web page complete... any links to the tsb/repair-resolution reguarding this issue??? i am having a crap ton of grief with our unit.. aside from this not so neat adventure...2013 36fl...

[atom ant]

Ya I can't either - you might try sending him a PM, but for now he has them locked in his photobucket account and I haven't heard form Adamsrv forever.

[markw]

There are way more pictures there than are needed to change the circuit breaker.

Mark

[rjberry]

Originally Posted by donwheeler

I thought I would pass along a cure to a specific problem I had with my Lippert auto-leveling system on my 2011 RW36RE.

SYMPTOM:
Whether in Auto mode or Manual mode, any operation from the touchpad would only last for 3 or 4 seconds, then stop. For instance; if I wanted to retract the rear jacks in manual mode, it would take several 3-to-4 second operations to ultimately retract the jacks.

CURE:
Replacing the faulty 50 Amp auto-reset circuit breaker (Buss CBP 50BA). It's a small device with two terminal posts on it located near various other Lippert hydraulic and electrical components inside the battery compartment. The device costs less than five dollars.

Perhaps this information may help someone in the future.

I have a 2013 RW36RL Redwood

Problem: Slides and jacks hesitating shutting on and off many times before completely retracting. I replaced my coach batteries first, not the problem, but they were old and did need replacing anyway they were four years old.

Solution:
You have made my day on fixing a problem that probably would of cost hundreds of dollars to fix. I will mention that if you have this problem as stated you just need to find the power bar. It will be attached to the wall somewhere in the battery compartment. Take it off the wall with the two screws and you will see that these are all breakers attached to this bar. I checked everyone and as stated, the one that has the red battery wire running up to the Trombetta reversing solenoid that goes to the motor was the problem. It is a 12 volt 50 amp breaker. It is grey in color but the auto parts item is black, no problem it is the same thing. I bought a new one for under $6 at the auto parts store, it is a pegged item in the electrical area. You remove the two wires from this breaker and the breaker just comes off of the power bar. Put the new one in its place and reattach the wires, problem solved. reattach the power bar back on the wall with the two screws

Note: Be sure to unhook the positive red wire from your batteries before working on this area, then reattach after you have replaced the breaker.

Thanks again for all of your postings, I hope this helps someone else.

[mhs4771]

RJ, be advised that your problem may come back because a 50 amp self resetting breaker is too small. The hydraulic pump under a heavy load can draw upwards of 80 amps.
I had the same problem with my 2012 RL and once I installed the larger breaker no problems.

[rjberry]

I did not find a larger breaker than the 50 amp at the auto store. I also noted that the breaker running directly from the battery is a 15 amp curious although there are different wires leaving from this breaker. I guess since I now know how to fix this, the breakers are easy to change. You guys have been so helpful with the problem resolution.

[spindrift]

Originally Posted by mhs4771

RJ, be advised that your problem may come back because a 50 amp self resetting breaker is too small. The hydraulic pump under a heavy load can draw upwards of 80 amps.
I had the same problem with my 2012 RL and once I installed the larger breaker no problems.

MHS...where did you source the 80A breaker?

Thanks!

[mhs4771]

Originally Posted by spindrift

MHS...where did you source the 80A breaker?

Thanks!

Actually I didn't, I used two 40 amp breakers in parallel, but there are 80s out there.

[RCAircraft]

Originally Posted by mhs4771

RJ, be advised that your problem may come back because a 50 amp self resetting breaker is too small. The hydraulic pump under a heavy load can draw upwards of 80 amps.
I had the same problem with my 2012 RL and once I installed the larger breaker no problems.

After having similar hydraulic related slide and leveling problems I found a defective connection at the pump motor. The left side power cable mounting stud, within the motor housing was loose burning the connector and damaging the brush holder, power cable and motor commutator . Working with Lippert, the entire pump assembly, directional valves and directional power solenoid were replaced with a newly designed and more robust hydraulic system. After replacing the system I went through all power and control connections finding many loose connections. I rerouted, bundled, tie wrapped and secured all cables, control wiring and hydraulic lines and replaced all of the thermal breakers with Bussmann brand breakers. The slides and leveling work very smoothly with no hesitation. So far-so good. I have the removed assembly in my garage and added to my task list to replace the motor. The pump, valves, manifold, reversing solenoid ( which is new) and hydraulic oil tank are in excellent condition. Could be a great spare as it is a drop-in replacement for the original unit. The 3'X2'X2' crate is too large to carry around so it will take up space at home.

[Twolfe]

I am having the same issue on my 2013 36FL. Thanks for all the helpful information!

[Twolfe]

My front jack will go down but once they contact the ground the Leveling jacks start to extent and the front stops going up. This all happened while pushing the Front jack button on the pad.
If I hit auto level, the front will not raise and but all 6 jacks make contact with the ground and then the hydraulic slide start coming out but the front never raises.
Any ideas as to why all the valves seem to open but the front?

All Jacks and slides do retract just fine.

Recently - I replaced the 50 Amp breaker and the Trombetta solenoid. All worked great until the end of this weekend camping trip.

[homeguy]

Sounds like a valve is open. I left a valve open and the front would come down and when it made contact, the slide came out.